21 Photos: sidestepping Sri Lanka’s tourist trail in Colombo

Travel and lifestyle photographer Issy Croker is drawn to the overlooked and the everyday – finding beauty in busy markets, backstreet canteens and the faces of people who make a city tick.

Arriving at Fort Colombo train station after a four-hour journey from the southwest coast, I felt a surge of anticipation and excitement. It had been months since my last visit to Sri Lanka’s most populous city, and the pull of its restless urban rhythm had been steadily building.

Colombo serves as the gateway to the island. Most visitors pass through Bandaranaike International Airport, just 20 minutes north of the city centre, before continuing on to the country’s picturesque villages, world-class beaches and lush mountains. As a result, the commercial capital has largely avoided the intense tourist development seen elsewhere. Returning here offers an easy immersion into everyday life without the overwhelming crowds. The city’s role as the country’s economic core offers a glimpse into the forces shaping modern Sri Lanka.

Walking through the fabric district, exploring Pettah Market, chatting with spice merchants and eating curries at crowded corner shops placed me directly in the world of those who call this city home. Lifting my camera to document the rhythm of everyday life felt instinctive. Every alleyway, stall and storefront holds a story, and I crisscrossed the centre trying to capture as much of it as possible.

Despite the constant clatter of buses, the city itself felt surprisingly calm. People spoke softly, moved without urgency and tended to their businesses with a quiet ease. Charming storefronts and welcoming locals competed gently for my attention. It was the colours that captivated me most. Among the street vendors, sky blues, soft pinks and rich greens formed an ever-shifting palette that I was determined to capture. Conversations came easily. I spoke with as many locals as I could, curious about their work and the trades that sustain the city.

One dried fish seller, brimming with charisma, enthusiastically explained the supply chain behind the towering stock piled floor-to-ceiling behind him, along with the best ways to prepare it. When he finished, he posed proudly with a prized fillet, urging me to keep photographing. The warmth shown by locals as I moved from street to street made exploring the city effortless and encouraged me to wander into any neighbourhood that caught my eye.

With only a few landmarks in mind, I kept my itinerary intentionally loose, excited to see where wandering might lead. Visiting the city early in the morning, before the midday heat sets in, makes it easier to cover ground on foot while also catching the streets during their busiest trading hours.

A visit to Pettah Market, the city’s largest, is essential for anyone interested in local produce and spices. Crops harvested from every corner of the island eventually funnel into this network of narrow passageways and crowded stalls. Nearby, the Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque – known as the Red Mosque – attracts both worshippers and visitors with its striking red-and-white striped facade. It is an active place of worship so photography inside is not permitted, but its Gothic arches, ornate clock tower and intricate exterior can be admired and photographed from the street.

Surrounding these landmarks is an endless mix of restaurants, food stalls and modest carts selling everything from freshly caught fish to marinated chickpeas. In Colombo, you rarely need to walk more than a few metres in any direction to find something quick and delicious. One of the breakfasts I shared with locals was freshly baked bread dipped into dahl curry, a staple found in nearly every neighbourhood canteen.

There are few places in the world more polite and welcoming than the people of Sri Lanka. If you come here with the goal of capturing the city’s beauty, a smile and a genuine effort to connect with locals will go a long way. Respecting local customs and throwing yourself into the middle of the action will almost always lead to the most rewarding experiences, both in Colombo and throughout the rest of the island. The variety of subjects, colours and textures found here will leave you with an urge to return again and again.