How to spend 48 hours in Barcelona, according to a local

Barcelona isn’t in a rush. When you visit, you’ll find that the pace of life is slower than in other European cities. Pull up a seat on a terrace in one of the city’s sun-drenched squares, and you’ll have ample time to people-watch before a server saunters over to take your order. The sooner you settle into the rhythm, the more you’ll enjoy the Catalan capital.

When I moved here 16 years ago, I was the type of person who was always on the go. Someone who raced down the escalator and was always punctual to the minute. Barcelona frustrated me at first: “How does anyone get anything done in this city?” I used to grumble. But then I learned that everything does, in fact, work – and quite well, too. Public transport is efficient, reliable and clean. Streets are hosed down twice a day, and Spain’s public health system ranks among the best in the world. Today, I move at an easier pace, taking time to gaze at Barcelona’s modernist facades and medieval passageways, to wave to the local wine merchant as I pass by their shop, and to enjoy long morning walks along the beach.

Recent years have seen Barcelona grabbing the headlines for all the wrong reasons. As the city reels under the pressures of overtourism and the crippling cost of living, I find myself slowing down even more – taking the long route to avoid a particularly thronged street or crossing the city to visit an uncrowded tapas bar. Read on to discover my picks for spending a perfect, unhurried weekend in Barcelona, without setting foot on La Rambla.

Where to stay: Borneta, El Born

For a stay that’s close enough to the action but far enough from the crush, book a room at Borneta. The boutique hotel’s plant-filled, contemporary interior is defined by a rich natural palette of earthy green and terracotta, courtesy of a former designer of Soho House. The vibe is spot on, and every nook is as cosy as it is comfortable, from the 92 bedrooms to the buzzy Italian Volta restaurant, which serves one of the best breakfasts in town. Make it your base to cool off at the photogenic rooftop pool, with views across the neighbouring Ciutadella Park and beyond.

Day one

Morning

Borneta is in El Born, Barcelona’s creative neighbourhood, where streets are named after the craftsmen who once worked there in the Middle Ages and lined with independent shops, studios and eateries. The labyrinthine passageways are ideal for a morning stroll before the crowds arrive, flitting between the workshops of local artisans such as jeweller Joan Rovira, who crafts his pieces from metal and local bamboo; and Alejandra Picart, who hand-paints ceramic tiles featuring a woman who is part self-portrait, part her mother and part Frida Kahlo. Other highlights include Etnia’s excellent eyewear, Cafés El Magnífico for tea and coffee, and Studio Concret for beautifully made souvenirs.

Lunch

Vila Viniteca is a gourmet grocery and Barcelona’s leading wine merchant. What only the locals know is that this century-old El Born institution also has four tables where you can graze on premium charcuterie, cheeses and anchovies, washed down with top-shelf wine by the glass. Elsewhere, Pizzeria Picaresca serves Milanese-style pizza by the slice, with standing tables spilling out onto the street.

Afternoon

It goes without saying that the city that gave us Pablo Picasso (he was born in Málaga but grew up here) and Joan Miró is an art destination to be reckoned with. In addition to the over-subscribed Picasso and Moco museums, El Born is home to contemporary art galleries including Artevistas and BUAT. Just a 15-minute drive away, on Montjuïc, you’ll find the colourful Joan Miró Foundation, along with botanical gardens, a Greek-style theatre and a 17th-century castle – all offering knockout views across the city.

Evening

El Born is not only Barcelona’s creative hub, but also one of the city’s best neighbourhoods for eating and drinking. Bar Pimentel, with its bright-red retro-style signage and colourful interior, serves classic, no-frills tapas, while its sister restaurant Taberna Nardi is a recently opened seafood bar with an upbeat music policy and a bright-white interior inspired by a traditional market fish stall. For some late-night shenanigans, head to the rowdy cocktail bars that pour out onto the lively Passeig del Born, where house music and revelry keep the party going. Or follow the locals for a quiet Negroni at the understated, low-lit Marlowe.

Day two

Morning

One advantage to staying in El Born is that you’re only a 15-minute walk from the beach. Another is that you’re surrounded by some of Barcelona’s best breakfast spots such as Lulu & Flyn, which has strong coffee and an even stronger avocado toast game. Whether you packed your swimwear will depend on the season, but the beach is a year-round delight. Cooler temperatures in winter (although Barcelona can easily read 17°C by midday in December) are perfect for leisurely walks along the waterfront – from the pier by W Barcelona (get there early enough to catch the sunrise reflected in its glass-and-steel facade) to the Fòrum festival area (home to Primavera Sound) near Diagonal Mar.

Lunch

Paella may originate from València, but Catalans love it too – although here we call it arroz, or rice, with “paella” reserved mostly for the classic Valencian variety. You’ll find one of the best seafood arroces at Can Fisher, at the far end of the beach. Order the arroz del señorito (gentlemen’s rice), if you like your shellfish pre-peeled.

Afternoon

Time to head further uptown to the more genteel Eixample district, known for its octagonal grid that creates a striking geometry when viewed from above. At street level, you’ll want to admire the colourful facades of its late-19th-century buildings, each more whimsical and intricate than the last. This is also the city’s retail district, with everything from high-street brands such as Zara, Mango and Adolfo Domínguez to luxury names including Gucci, Fendi and Prada lining Barcelona’s most famous boulevard, Passeig de Gràcia. Eixample is home to several of Antoni Gaudí’s most illustrious works, including the Sagrada Família, Casa Batlló and La Pedrera, which are worth pre-booking to guarantee entry.

Evening

Continue to the top of Passeig de Gràcia and you’ll find yourself in one of the Catalan capital’s most picturesque neighbourhoods. The narrow, leafy streets of Gràcia are packed with intimate bars and restaurants, including Contracorrent Bistró, a charming natural wine spot that serves creative Italo-Catalan tasting menus at a price point so reasonable you’ll wonder whether they forgot to charge you. For a nightcap, FOCO is a British-owned cocktail joint with a gritty, industrial vibe, serving modern twists on classics such as an Espresso Martini made with cold brew steeped in booze rather than water.