Travel

Six iconic shots: photographing Kyoto like a local

Forget the crowds and clichés – here’s how to photograph the city with fresh eyes, from hidden shrines to late-night lanterns and riverside sunsets.

Six iconic shots: photographing Kyoto like a local
Six iconic shots: photographing Kyoto like a local

Kyoto is one of Japan’s most picturesque destinations and a dream for photographers – and for good reason. The photographic opportunities are seemingly endless in a city overflowing with temples and traditional historic alleys.

As beautiful as Kyoto is, it has become increasingly challenging to get those “bucket list” pictures without having to get up in the middle of the night and queue with other photographers, tourists and influencers for that one shot you’ve seen a hundred times.

But here’s the good news: photographer Sam Hodenius, who spent five years living in Japan, has compiled some helpful tips so that you can get those Kyoto-specific shots without having to trade your precious sleep. Hodenius’ deep love for the country’s hidden corners means she has the inside track on how to capture the quiet magic beyond the usual tourist paths. 

Here are six ideas to capture Kyoto in a way that feels fresh, personal – and perhaps even unseen.

Photo: Sam Hodenius

1. City of a thousand torii gates

Fushimi Inari is Kyoto’s most famous shrine, but there are many similar, less crowded spots that are just as photogenic.

One of my personal favourites is Kifune Shrine in the mountains of Kibune – a perfect half-day trip from the city. The village’s riverside setting, traditional architecture and nearby trails offer plenty of postcard-worthy pictures.

Since Kibune is popular with locals on weekends, visit on a weekday and arrive by 7am to photograph the steps to the shrine.

I shoot with a smaller F-stop, like f/4, to lead the eye towards the red torii, while including foreground details like the white paper shide to anchor the scene in its cultural context. The red gates may catch the eye first, but it’s the subtle details that define the location as uniquely Japanese.

Photo: Sam Hodenius

2. Go where the locals are

I love enjoying the city and its tranquil atmosphere at Kamo River. You’ll find many locals sitting along the riverside in the evening, having picnics, playing music and watching the sun set behind the traditional buildings.

To photograph the sunset, come from downtown Kyoto, pass one of the bridges and settle on the side of Higashiyama. If you want to capture the sun flare, play around with your F-stop. A lower F-stop like f/1.4-f/2.8 produces a soft glow, whereas a bigger F-stop from f/16 and up will produce a very defined sunburst – like the picture above. Thanks to the river in between, you can take very aesthetic photos here even if it’s crowded, which is often the case at many other locations during sunset.

Photo: Sam Hodenius

3. Capturing Arashiyama without the crowds

Arashiyama is incredibly popular with photographers and tourists alike, but since the whole area is actually set in a bamboo grove, you don’t need to follow the crowds to one popular spot.

For a quieter location within a beautiful temple complex, take the bus from Arashiyama station to Adashino Nenbutsuji. The grove is smaller but more visually interesting as it winds uphill – and there’s no need to wake up early.

Around noon, the diffused backlight through the bamboo creates a magical atmosphere, unlike the darker early mornings. Plus, it’s often quieter as many people are out for lunch. I used a smaller aperture here to retain detail in the distance.

Photo: Sam Hodenius

4. Kyoto after dark

Kyoto is not necessarily famous for its night-time views but I think it should be! The contrast of traditional alleys and carefully crafted neon signs is something I always enjoy capturing. If you walk around the area of Gion you will definitely find charming corners to explore.

Night photography can be tricky and the right settings are crucial, such as using a wider aperture and a sufficient shutter speed. More important than the technical aspects, though, is to learn how to use light sources to your advantage. There is always light in the dark, be it street lights, store lights or even the moonlight – be creative with the way you use it.

Photo: Sam Hodenius

5. Play around with your focus

There is so much to see in Kyoto that it can be hard to choose what to focus on. I like to play around with different compositions depending on which story I want to tell. Sometimes that means giving my surroundings more focus than myself.

Yasaka Shrine is one of my favourites in Kyoto, and letting its gorgeous lanterns disappear into the background felt like a waste. By shifting the focus, the composition became much more interesting. While Yasaka Shrine can be very crowded during the daytime, many visitors miss out on its magical atmosphere at night. If you arrive past 9pm, you’ll be able to capture the majestic lanterns without too many visitors.

Photo: Sam Hodenius

6. The devil is in the details

I get it, you want to capture Kyoto as a whole – but sometimes, the best thing you can do is zoom in. Be it a close-up of the vibrant cherry blossoms in spring or the ritualistic water basins outside of temples. I love to use a 24-70mm zoom lens in order to be flexible with my compositions while I travel around the city. Using a wider aperture creates a shallow depth of field that helps capture the falling water, making it melt into the picture.

In summer, colourful hydrangeas are displayed in the water basins used by visitors for mouth and hand purification before entering sacred areas. The flowers add a bright and refreshing touch to the atmosphere, especially during the humid rainy season. One of my favourite temples to visit in Kyoto during hydrangea season is Yanagidani Kannon Temple, a spot mostly known by locals for its stunning hydrangea displays.